I did it on my 3/4 ton. I originally LS swapped it but used the entire stock driveline with torque tube. When I added a 319 with the borg electric OD I needed to have a driveshaft made. I priced out the 2 piece and choked. I asked the place to do a one piece shaft and they were very reluctant. The guy said it was like 2” too long out of his comfort zone for a 1 piece shaft. He said he would so it for me with no guarantees or i could do a 4” aluminum shaft no problem. I thought he was stupid and I was smart because ive done wayyyy sketchier things with no problems. So i did a TON of research and turns out the man knew his stuff! It was JUST a little too long for the rated tube wall diameter/thickness/ length BUT I ran the calculations multiple times on the max driveshaft RPM that I planned on spinning and it was technically still in the “safe zone” but it was right on edge. Now my truck is ALL stock steering and brakes so I dont drive it like a maniac and my cruise speed is 65-70mph so knowing that my driveshaft is technically not rated to go much faster actually sticks in my mind and keeps me at a safer speed. Ive run it at 80mph a few times just fine and its been in the truck zero issues for at least 3yrs now. This is all just food for thought. I will say I LEARNED A LOT by doin all that research. Learned drive shaft tubes are seldom “round”, learned about tube deflection and that the shaft actually turns itself into a jump rope at a certain pre determined RPM, learned that the more weight in the shaft the more exaggerated stress it puts on the u-joints and learned how to really calculate the most important thing in figuring a driveshaft…..RPM.

1949 GMC 150
Story in Project Journals