I don't know if there is an outstanding question. So I will cover what I think will enable Grady to get wired.
Do Not use wire colors for hook ups unless an entire new harness is being installed or truck has untouched original wiring.
USE THE FUNCTION TO WIRE THINGS. USE ANY COLOR YOU ARE PRESENTED WITH. USE ANY COLOR TO MAKE CONNECTIONS. MARK THEM WITH LABELS IF YOU WANT. DOES NOT MATER IF COLORS MATCH ANYTHING. IF THEY DO, GREAT.
Assuming 12V, indicator light (idiot light), solenoid starter with R terminal, ballast resistor, V8 style starter switch (momentary full CW solenoid position), ammeter that can handle the conversion and 10si alternator wired as "3 wire".
1. Ammeter needs a battery hot wire on one terminal and all the other "loads" go on the other ammeter terminal. Including the alternator.
2. Alternator wiring: 10si: Terminal 1 (R) wires to the idiot light, thru idiot light to ignition. Use an "ignition on" terminal that is not also used for the coil. ACC can be used. Terminal 2 (F) is wired to the alternator output stud. The alternator output stud is wired to the ammeter load terminal. The load side terminal of the ammeter is opposite where you wire a "direct" battery positive wire, whether from the battery post or from the solenoid battery stud. Mentioned in note 1. All of the other loads are wired to the load side. Ignition hot, headlight switch hot, etc.
A voltmeter is better to use than an ammeter.
Last edited by bartamos; 11/18/2022 12:32 AM. Reason: adding clarifcation words.
