Huck brakes have two adjusting stars per wheel cylinder. Each adjusting star adjusts only one brake shoe.
Before I bleed a Huck system, I tighten one star until the drum won't turn. I them back it off until I can barely move the drum by hand. I then tighten the other star on the wheel cylinder until I can't turn the drum, then back it off until I can barely move the drum by hand.
I do this on all four wheels. Why? because I want to eliminate as much free play in the shoes so that the master cylinder has enough residual brake fluid in it to put full hydraulic pressure to the wheel cylinders. I then bleed all of the wheel cylinders. I then adjust the wheel cylinders as per The Book, except that I have them set tighter than their specs (fewer clicks away from felt significant drag). Doing it this way encourages the drums and shoes to machine themselves to a matching arc.
So you might ask, "Carl, why doesn't The Book tell us to do it that way?"
It is because the book assumes that you have new drums and new shoes which have matching arcs. The Book does address how to correct a mismatch of arc between drum and shoe, but it involves grinding shoes to match the drums. Something which I don't want to do.

1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission