| |
Click on image for the lowdown. 
====
| | | Forums66 Topics128,047 Posts1,055,532 Members48,424 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
| | THANKS!
For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Feb 2019 Posts: 4,472 AD Addict & Tinkerer | | AD Addict & Tinkerer Joined: Feb 2019 Posts: 4,472 | iI had the same question a few weeks ago and came to the conclusion that I would need to buy the kit and figure out where it needed to be located and/or modified. One possible solution and at the top of my list, as suggested by a fellow ‘bolter “Coilover” who own’s and operates a body/hotrod shop in Texas, was to move the whole setup (booster & MC) back on the frame, then make a longer rod. Another ‘bolter said he was able to grind the offending section on the rear crossmember. I have also heard that you can buy a new tubular crossmember that eliminated the interference.
Phil Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc BrakesProject JournalsStovebolt Gallery Forum | | |
| |
| |