iI had the same question a few weeks ago and came to the conclusion that I would need to buy the kit and figure out where it needed to be located and/or modified. One possible solution and at the top of my list, as suggested by a fellow ‘bolter “Coilover” who own’s and operates a body/hotrod shop in Texas, was to move the whole setup (booster & MC) back on the frame, then make a longer rod. Another ‘bolter said he was able to grind the offending section on the rear crossmember. I have also heard that you can buy a new tubular crossmember that eliminated the interference.


Phil
Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals

1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube
Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes
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