I have a silicone valve cover gasket on my '53 engine (2 acorn nuts on the top style).
You won't get away with a deformed valve cover with this gasket. You will need to do tin smith work just like the cork gaskets require. I did glue mine to the valve cover to keep it from squirming around on me. It seals nicely and comes in handy for taking the valve cover off for adjusting the valves.
What we really need is a tutorial on how to do the tin smith work on the valve cover.
I can provide a few things I have picked up on for the 2 acorn style valve covers.
1) Put the valve cover upside down on a smooth length of 2x6. With a long extension and a socket which matches the underside of where the acorn nut hole is, mash the sheet metal there until it is restored to its original position. This area gets deformed a bit every time you put the valve cover back on.
2) Take the bow out of the middle of the valve cover on both sides where it meets the head.
3) Put the valve cover on the head and check with a feeler gauge where you can to check for gaps which require more tin smithing. One side of the '53 and earlier valve cover has a lip on it, preventing the use of a feeler gauge. You can check the sealing edge on that side with a straight edge on the bench.
'54 and later valve covers require some tin smith work at the four bolt holes, as they get deformed real easy. You can put the cover on the head and check for gaps with a feeler gauge all the way around. Then tweak imperfections as needed with a SFBH. (small -------body hammer for those scoring at home.)
Last edited by 52Carl; 04/10/2022 1:09 AM.
