hmmmmmmmmmm. kb-3. sounds like antique corn picker to me. yeah you guys can do this, and here's how (get ready to put this in the tech section mom)
here goes.
first let's look at what you have. the one and only air tank is a SERVICE air tank. on some road tractors of that era there might have been an additional air tank called an emergency tank, but really all it was for was for parking. the parking brake was applied with a push pull control valve that applied pressure to the brakes. when the pressure went, so did the brakes. (you diesel guys never leave the truck in gear when ya park it, right?)
to bring yer big rig into this century is pretty easy, and requires a few simple modifications.
1. yep, the BRAKE CHAMBERS should be the same size as the original. remove the upper part of the chamber by unbolting the top of the brake chamber that's currently on the truck after disconnecting the air line. it should pop off due to the spring inside. there's a rubber piece inside called a PANCAKE. when you go to the big truck parts joint buy a new pancake, and see if you can get a new return spring. (ever see them 1/2 mile long skidmarks on the road? bad return spring usually, and if gives tire dealers a warm and fuzzy feeling in the wallet).
o.k. next.
you have a new pancake and return spring. these are for the SERVICE brakes. you install a new COMPOUND BRAKE CHAMBER on top of where the old brake chamber was, and hook up the SERVICE air line to where it oughta go. it should be marked.
now you need to run new EMERGENCY brake lines to another PUSH PULL CONTROL VALVE in the cab
run a new air supply line to the new air tank you scrounged at the junkyard. this is the emergency air supply tank.
run a new air line from the control valve to a supply port. this can be on the original air tank, or anyplace that gives a constant supply of air. there needs to be a check valve in this line someplace to prevent the backflow of air from the emergency air tank back into the system.
sound complicated don't it? it ain't really.
here's some misc. stuff.
run plastic air line, and if ya can, replace the air line you have with plastic. it lasts longer, is much cheaper, stands up to weather, and oil much better, is easier to install and you don't have to have them custom made up.
other than that, it just as good as the rubber crap.
red is the color of emergency line, green is service.
run any air line like an oil line. that means don't let it chafe other lines or metal objects like bolts and the frame. use plenty of clamps and wire ties. if you decide to not do this remember that loud hissing sound comes just before yer nose smacks the windshield. oh yeah, there's the tire guy getting that feeling again, as you skid to a stop.
O.K. NOW YOU HAVE REAL EMERGENCY AND PARKING BKAKES. THIS NEXT PART CONCERNS YOUR SAFETY, AND HOW LONG YOU INTEND TO LIVE OR AT LEAST HOW MANY FINGERS AND EYES YOU ARE BURIED WITH.
UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES ARE YOU TO EVER TO UNCLAMP THE TOP PART OF A COMPOUND BRAKE CHAMBER. THERE IS A MASSIVE SPRING COMPRESSED INSIDE THAT CAN AND WILL UNSPRING WITHOUT WARNING IF YOU LOOSEN THE EMERGENCY BRAKE CLAMP!!!!!!!!!!!!!.
if the top of a brake chamber ever leaks air, you replace the entire chamber. you can change a service pancake, but NEVER an emergency pancake. the way the emergency chamber works is air pressure overcomes spring pressure to release to brake. as air pressure decreases, the spring takes over and applies the brake.
you may find a diagram on websites from
anchorlock
berg
american brakeblock.
next time ask an easier question will ya? my 2 typing fingers are sore.
