If you’re not building a tire shredding monster for a powerhouse, I’d go with the 8.8. As you said, they are EVERYWHERE nowadays in wreckers. Do some research for identification and you can score a very good rear end for cheap. The Ford door codes have the rear info on there. I got a 3:73 posi out of an Explorer for $120. Disc brakes, posi, 200,000km on it, brake cables, driveshaft, etc. Check what year the explorer went to IRS and away from leaf springs to get the right range of years.

One hiccup though. The rear end I bought was too wide for the project it was intended for. This rear also has the yoke offset by 3” or so. However, if you’re a good welder, or know someone who is or can take it to a shop, it can easily by narrowed 3” at home. This will center the rear for you. While at the wrecker source another short side axle to install in the shortened side. I did this modification over a weekend on my wife’s Rambler’s 8.8.

What width does your 40 rear need to be?

Very good modificationinfo here:





Door jamb codes:

https://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/axle_codes.shtml

I got the D4.

It worked out very well for my wife’s Rambler once narrowed. Great width.
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Last edited by Fox; 02/16/2022 6:14 AM.

1970 Chevrolet C10
Grandpa's -- My first truck -- In progress to shiny
Follow the build in the Project Journal
1950 Chevrolet 1-Ton Dually
"Ole Red Girl"
In the Stovebolt Gallery
More pictures here
1951 GMC 9430 1 ton dually--Shiny! | 1972 Chevrolet C20- Rusty- the puzzle box lid for the C10 | 1962 AMC Rambler American- my wife's
Parts trucks-
1951 GMC 9300 | 1951-GMC 9430 | 1951- Chevrolet 1300