Originally Posted by 58caddy
5 spd trans (not sure if it's Clark, Spicer, or Eaton, anyone advise how I can identify?

Post a picture of the shift pattern on the gear shift knob

Originally Posted by 58caddy
-crate 366 installed five years ago after original block cracked, but I don't see any frame modifications/welds for the motor mounts, so I'm really wondering what block was original

ALL Chevrolet engines except for the 292 use the same motor mounts.

Originally Posted by 58caddy
I need the following help:
-Brakes: would like to upgrade to a dual master. Original drum systems don't bother me, but I am hoping to get all new drums, shoes, hardware, and wheel cylinders replaced. Can someone provide part numbers or guidance on locating the parts? Maybe photos of what you've done for master cylinder upgrades?

Keep the original Master Cylinder, re-engineering the brake system is not worth the hassle. There aren't any kits made for the big trucks. Drums are made out of unobtanium, turn your drums as long as they are in spec and move on. Master and Wheel cylinders might be available new or can be sleeved and rebuilt. Replace all of the steel a rubber lines, they fail from the inside out.

Originally Posted by 58caddy
-Wheels: tires are in desperate need of replacement but I am far from any fleet services such as ALCOA or Snider, and the smaller shops will not touch split rims. I'd like to get replacement wheels without modification, if possible. 10 hole/5lug on front, 10 lug on rear. I know others have dealt with this, let me know what has worked!

Looks like you have the Firestone RH-5 rims...they were outlawed decades ago because they are dangerous...ton of reading here, do a search.

Originally Posted by 58caddy
-Fuel tanks: both are dirty, one hasn't been used in a few years. Wanting to get both operational, and clean, with correctly calibrated sending units. Any advice on best way to tackle these? This is my first time dealing with side-mount tanks and any guidance would be very appreciated. For example, would it be best to replace the tanks with new ones? If so, would you recommend specific suppliers?

Have the fuel tanks "hot tanked" or chemically cleaned out and then seal them if necessary. Buy a new sending unit to match the tank depth and gauge ohm value.


Originally Posted by 58caddy
-Wiring: As with many farm trucks, there has been some "make it work" additions/splices/interesting decisions made. For instance, my dash and cab clearance lights only come on when I press the brake pedal, or sometimes when I engage the turn signal stalk (but still the signals don't work), but the aftermarket hazards work just fine. With this type of stuff, I have often simply located a correct replacement harness and started new. Does anyone have leads for correct harnesses?

Any pickup truck wiring harness will work, you'll just need to extend the wires to the rear if they are short. I've used American Auto Wire harness kits on my last three project and been very happy...they make all kinds of kits. I found it was easier to just tear all the old wiring out and start over with everything new including the fuse box...

My .02 cents

Mike B smile

Mike Boteler

1956 Chevy 3100 Resto Rod
1952 Willys M38 Army Jeep
1983 Jeep CJ7 Laredo
1984 Jeep CJ7
+++++
Silver Spring, MD