As long as the tire is deflated, it is pretty difficult to hurt oneself working on these wheels.
Once the air is out, lay the wheel flat on the ground and break the bead loose. I do this by stepping on it at various places around the rim. It usually will break free if the wheel is not too rusty. Sometimes, I have to pour tire lube or dishwashing soap around the perimeter of the rim, and let it soak in along the bead. If you keep working the tire, it will eventually unseat. Sometimes, a little prying with a tire iron is also needed.
Professional tire and wheel shops use a big hammer with almost a chisel end on it, to break the bead. I don't have one, and would probably not be confident enough in my aim even if I did. My rims and lock rings are full of dents & dings - presumably from someone who had used this method sometime in the past, but had definitely not mastered it.
Once the beads are broken loose, the lock ring is removed. There is a notch in the ring to engage either a tire iron, or a large screw driver. As you pry on the lock ring to push it away from the rim, the opposite side of the ring needs to go down and into the slot cut around the circumference of the rim. I use a good sized (approx 2 lb.) dead blow hammer for this, hitting the ring down and into the rim slot, as I simultaneously pry on the opposite side with a tire iron. The ring should tilt enough to get another screw driver between the lip of the lock ring and the rim. You can then work your way around the ring continuing to whack on it with the dead blow hammer. It will usually pop off when you get a quarter to a third of the way around. (Note: While the lock ring is fairly robust, too much pressure can bend it, so don't go crazy trying to pry it off.)
You will see that the lock ring has a retaining lip, that holds it on the rim. If you look closely at the first pic in the post above, you will notice that there are two cutouts in this lip, which assist in sliding the lock ring over the rim.
Once the ring is off, with the tire still lying flat on the ground, put a few of 4x4 pieces of wood under the tire, basically suspending the rim. Then, push or stand on the rim to work it out of the tire. The tire lube, or dish soap works well here too, in order to help get the tire to slide over the rim. The tire, tube, and flap all come off as an assembly.
All of my rims have been rusty inside, so their first stop is at the sandblaster whenever I pull a tire off for the first time. I also try to do a little cleanup on the more pitted areas with sandpaper. This is also a good time to inspect for cracks, or serious rust. Inspect the area where the rim connects to the center hub very closely. Fortunately, although some of my wheels and rings have shown some pitting, they are still serviceable. Note, it is also good practice to keep the lock ring with the wheel it came off of. Do not mix them. If all is well, prime and paint as desired.
After the paint cures, it's time for reassembly. First, the tube is slightly aired up, just until it starts to look round. It is coated with tire lube, and pushed into the tire. Next, the flap is lubed, and installed. I like to slide my hand into the tire/flap interface, all around both beads, to make sure the flap is centered, and sitting flat. You don't want any edges rolled up in between the tire and tube.
I put a little more air into the tube, just a shot or two, to ensure that it's captured in the tire, and won't shift around. Lay the rim on the ground with the lock ring side up. Tilt the rim up from the side opposite the valve stem slot. Then tilt the tire onto the rim starting with the valve stem side, tilting and pushing the valve stem thru the slot in the rim. If the tire bead is lubed, the rest of the tire should easily slide onto the rim.
To install the lock ring, push it onto the rim at the cutout areas. Using the dead blow hammer, start on the side opposite the notch, and try to tilt and tap the ring into the slot in the rim. It helps to stand on the rim, with your feet over the lock ring to keep it from popping off. Once the lock ring starts to engage the rim, you can usually work it back on by whacking it with the dead blow hammer. Sometimes, it needs a little help. In this case, I stick a piece of 2x2 into one of the hand holes and push down on the lock ring while hitting it with the dead blow hammer until it pops back on. I know "real" tire shops often use a big steel hammer for this, but I prefer the dead blow as it is less likely to knock off the fresh paint.
Lastly, follow the inflation procedure as described above. It is HIGHLY recommended to use a safety cage for this - especially if this is your first time, and may be unsure of proper lock ring seating. If not, the above procedure is pretty safe. I know others have used nylon straps, logging chains, or other heavy duty retention methods to contain the ring in the event it comes off during inflation.
Best Regards.....
Last edited by CrowbarBob; 12/03/20218:14 AM. Reason: Typo
