Re-reading your first post you mention a spring, but your pictures and diagram do not show a spring. Is there a spring or not? My truck has no spring and the rubber cup acts like a spring due to its "springiness".

I am aware of the dimple that sets the depth of the mast bearing, however, the depth would still be dependent on how hard you pound on the bearing when you set it. So, some variability there.

Again, re-reading your first post you mention that the horn goes off when turning the steering wheel. If that is the case I interpret that to mean your prongs are still too long. Try filing or grinding a small amount off the ends, like 1/32 inch or so at a time until the horn seems to function.

I understand your frustration with the engineers who designed this and with the vendors that supply replacement parts. The fact that the engineers kept changing the basic design of the horn buttons between generations of trucks tells me they were searching for a more reliable design. I stand by my comment that with this design, due to the variability of tolerances of all the parts, that hand fitment, along with patience, is necessary.
Good luck,
Kent
P.S. I am not at my shop for a while so I can't measure the length of my prongs. My above comments explain why I don't think it would be helpful, in any case.

Last edited by Lightholder's Dad; 10/08/2021 3:11 PM.

1937 Chevy 1/2 ton
1942 Chevy 1/2 ton
1947 Diamond T Model 509
1951 Chevy 1/2 ton
1950 Chevy COE Model 5700 ~ "Barney" ~ And more pix