Get a good or at least decent handheld meter. Make certain it will test capacitors. Mine is an APPA 95, but I don't know if that model is still sold. It was made in Taiwan and is a fine unit, comparable to Fluke or other more expensive models. Near the bottom, you'll see 2 rectangular slots for testing capacitors. Some other meters I've seen have a different method of connection, however most followed this same design. If the leads on your capacitor aren't long enough to insert and make contact, use two paper clips inserted and touch the leads to those. Choose 4uF on the selection dial. Connect your capacitor and see what the meter tells you. Note...don't worry about polarity on automobile condensers. It doesn't matter in this case. Make certain the reading doesn't jump around or die/start again. If it does that, it indicates a loss of connection internally. You're looking for a stable reading as close to .22uF as possible. Please bear in mind today's capacitors are made (usually) to an acceptable variance of either 5 or 10%, so anything between .198 and .242 will be acceptable in their eyes. You can see a test on one of the capacitors I use to make the "alternative condensers" below. Slightly less than a 4% variance factor. Hope this helps.
Attachments
Testing 1, 2, 3.JPG (24.92 KB, 130 downloads)


~ Jon
1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end