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Click on image for the lowdown. 
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| | | Forums66 Topics128,034 Posts1,055,440 Members48,422 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: May 2015 Posts: 11,004 Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums | | Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums Joined: May 2015 Posts: 11,004 | The holes the balls are pressed into have a chamfer on both sides, so drilling a shallow hole just smaller than the shank diameter helps give that material that's been swaged into the chamfer somewhere to go and makes it easier to push the shank out. You can push them out either way, either grinding the back side flush or cut the ball off and grind that side flush. The drill your hole and use your press or BFH. I used a ball joint press that I have with a bolt smaller than the hole I drilled as a pushing tool. The BFH method can get a bit hairy if your impact is not dead on. Mine was about the same as yours, looking like a football if you look at the end of the ball. I pressed the new ball in place, then heated the opposite end and peened it back into the chamfer with a big ball peen hammer. Or you can run a weld bead around it. There are also bolt-in replacement balls, with thread and nut on the back side.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truckFollow this saga in Project JournalPhotos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together. | | |
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