To correct Phil's typo NO lubricant is needed for tapping cast iron.
Looks like you have access to the back side as well so stick a magnet just below the hole while you're tapping to catch the chips. Getting it perpendicular to the surface isn't even a big deal if you're just plugging the hole, and a cast iron plug would be best to match the expansion/contraction of the base material. If you grind it off flush it would even be mostly invisible once the block is painted. Use some pipe dope or some Permatex #2 on the plug when threading it in and just get it snug.


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
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1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.