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Click on image for the lowdown. 
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| | | Forums66 Topics128,131 Posts1,056,723 Members48,454 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
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For helping keep this great
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: May 2015 Posts: 11,117 Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums | | Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums Joined: May 2015 Posts: 11,117 | To correct Phil's typo NO lubricant is needed for tapping cast iron. Looks like you have access to the back side as well so stick a magnet just below the hole while you're tapping to catch the chips. Getting it perpendicular to the surface isn't even a big deal if you're just plugging the hole, and a cast iron plug would be best to match the expansion/contraction of the base material. If you grind it off flush it would even be mostly invisible once the block is painted. Use some pipe dope or some Permatex #2 on the plug when threading it in and just get it snug.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truckFollow this saga in Project JournalPhotos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together. | | |
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