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Click on image for the lowdown. 
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| | | Forums66 Topics128,162 Posts1,057,040 Members48,463 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
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For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,983 Sir Searchalot | | Sir Searchalot Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,983 | There is only one ground for motor to start. (battery negative cable to motor bolt, you said you cleaned/checked that). If it won't turnover AND no lights. You have a bad battery or a charging system that is not keeping it charged, or both. After battery charged up, check for it to be 12.6V at rest and about 13.5V-14.5V when at high idle. (if it starts). Also a bad battery can show a charge of 12.6V but will fail after a few starts or drives. A load test will show that type of cell failure.
Get a meter that measures volts DC.
Switch from Delcotron externally regulated alternator to Delco 10si. Throw it away with voltage regulator and all that silly wiring.
Also: The other day I saw something that made me think of you. I saw a picture of a GMC instrument cluster that had been fried. As in: shorted out somehow. All of the PC copper runs were black and chipping off. I think that is what you had. I think the black stuff was the protective plastic sheet getting burnt/melted right above the runs and I thought is was a coating on your other post. Now I think it was burn trace. Charred "plastic".
Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn | | |
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