Colin Thanks. You took a different approach to it with the longer ubolts. I used shorter ubolt from the bottom, I tried it as you had it set up but the ubolts dropped below the rim height. I cut the original mount off the axle and welded the plate to the underside of the axle. I removed 2 leafs and moved the tie rod ends below the steering arms. The only real issue I had was the lower shock mount. I swapped them side to side and bolted them above the new mounting plate behind the axle. I had to move the shock to the rear as I was using a saginaw power box( using a kit from Brothers). The drag link mounts below the steering arm on the axle and above the pitman arm at the box. Once I set the engine in and had the cab back on it settled some but I still have 3.5" of clearence at the frame. I have thought about cutting a "C" into the frame but can't bring myself to cut the truck. I have had it this way for a couple of years now and haven't had any issues with driving, and I live in the country on a dirt road. I should also add that I dropped the rear as well, moving the axle above the springs here too. The Truck sets low, but not lowrider, I run 245/60/15's on 8" Rally wheels. I will have to get some pictures of the setup when I get back home form here(Iraq), the axle flip is good for 4-5" of drop, my front bumper is 7" above the ground. Maybe I can get the set up added to Tech Tips later.


~ Craig
1958 Viking 4400
"The Book of Thor"
Read the story in the DITY
1960 Chevrolet C10
"A Family Heirloom"
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'59 Apache 31, 327 V8 (0.030 over), Muncie M20 4 Speed, GM 10 Bolt Rear... long term project (30 years and counting)

If you don't like driving yourTruck, you won't drive yourTruck..| Living life in the SLOW lane