Several different good ideas, which again proves there is more than one way to do things.

I personally use a glass bowl filter right at the carburetor, and none between the tank and pump.

WHY?

I don't like crawling under the vehicle to change a defective filter. Sometimes a mechanical pump will not properly draw through a filter. And quality fuel pump kits are readily available, and not expensive.

I would concur with Dragsix about protecting the carburetor with a filter at the carburetor against all debris including a deteriorating fuel pump diaphragm.

I like to use the glass bowl filters. I use the old Carters, with a Carter Magnatrap, but a new filter may be used, and substitute a "button magnet" for the magnatrap. This gives dual protection, as even tiny rust particles will adhere to the magnet. When the magnet is no longer gray, but rust red, time to remove the bowl, clean the magnet, and reinstall.

Really difficult to see through a metal bowl wink And have used these glass bowl filters on cars, trucks, and tractors since 1959 with zero problems.

And again, I concur with Dragsix about avoiding plastic filters.

As far as the lines are concerned, each end (fuel pump, and either carburetor or filter) probably accept a male 1/8 pipe fitting. One can then use either compression or inverted flare on the line to the appropriate fitting. However, inverted flare may normally be reused, if necessary to remove either the carburetor or the fuel pump. I don't like trying to use compression fittings, so I won't. If compression fittings are used, then I would suggest bending a new line if either the carburetor or fuel pump must be removed for service.

Jon.


Good carburetion is fuelish hot air
The most expensive carburetor is the wrong one you attempt to modify.
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The Carburetor Shop