Waldo, I made my own hot water kit. The lines are 5/16" brake lines I used from NAPA. The fittings came from there as well. Bent them with a $10. tubing bender and painted them with Chevy Duty high temp "stainless". My neighbor loaned me a swaging/flaring set and showed me how to use it. I utilized a 261 thermostat housing and waterpump to circulate the water through the intake as suggested by 4onthe floor, another Stovebolt member. The heat plate itself started as a 5/16" thick piece of steel that was 4" X 5". I used a hacksaw and a vice to trim it and a bench grinder to shape it to match the curves and angles of the intake. I was again fortunate to have my neighbor drill and thread the holes for the fittings. Check out my pics on the link below. P.S. I believe exhaust heat would actually work faster. I have been told by someone with experience however that exhaust heat can "carbonize" an aluminum intake. Should work fine for the original cast iron type though. Also, theoretically, water heat can keep the intake(especially aluminum ones) from getting too hot, resulting in better performance and gas mileage.


1962 Fleetside 4spd 235 w/O.D. posi 3:90
In the Stovebolt Gallery
1990 Subaru Legacy Wagon AWD 2.2 5sp
2013 Ram Tradesman C/V
My Webshot Photos]