This is similar to what I did at a metalshaping demo I gave at the shop for the Stovebolters. An almost identical question as yours was posed... how to address poorly fitting reproduction parts..
In most cases it is a simple case of bends or profiles slightly off in position. If you think about it, the bends are already there, just in the wrong position. So a gradual hammering to relocate is what's in order. Here's the tutorial in moving a bend line:
Original thread:
www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=564637I did have a small piece of solid round stock I was using in the vise to hammer against, but looking at your profile and the limited return on the bends, and all STRAIGHT bends, you should be able to do this hammering against a simple flat bar..
Using a piece of flat bar as an anvil, position where you want your new bend and hammer as shown (red arrow) All we are doing here is to define where the new bend should go.. It doesn't necessarily need to be done all at once, sometimes it works better if you do incremental bends between steps and just keep repeating the process between all the different steps until you get to where you need to be.
[img]
https://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthread...ber/16741/filename/FloorCrossmember1.jpg[/img]
Next, position the anvil where the new angled bend needs to be (ramps up) and here you hammer on the side (hidden in this view) to manipulate the ramp bend to the new location needed..
[img]
https://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthread...ber/16742/filename/FloorCrossmember2.jpg[/img]
Next, position the anvil to be able to hammer the last crease detail..
[img]
https://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthread...ber/16743/filename/FloorCrossmember3.jpg[/img]
Keep in mind this process is never a one and your done. It would take multiple passes back and forth based on how the material reacts. Or you could even cut out the ramp part altogether, move where it needs to be, weld in place, and weld a filler piece at the end where it now is short.
