LT1---no oil leaks SB---valve cover, intake end seals, rear main, timing cover
LT1---runs smooth at any horsepower rating SB--- gets lumpy from 300hp up
LT1---300K miles engine SB---very worn out at 150K miles
LT1---starts no matter how hot or cold SB---problematic if exhaust near starter or hot rodded
LT1---starts and returns to correct idle automaticly SB---@*&% choke
LT1---25mpg with 400hp engine SB---12mpg with 300hp engine
LT1---no overheat problem SB---Heat problem if over bored past 0.030
LT1---Idle all day 100* and a/c on SB---forget this
Just a few things that come to mind but it's your decision.
LT1---no oil leaks SB---valve cover, intake end seals, rear main, timing cover
LT1---runs smooth at any horsepower rating SB--- gets lumpy from 300hp up
LT1---300K miles engine SB---very worn out at 150K miles
LT1---starts no matter how hot or cold SB---problematic if exhaust near starter or hot rodded
LT1---starts and returns to correct idle automaticly SB---@*&% choke
LT1---25mpg with 400hp engine SB---12mpg with 300hp engine
LT1---no overheat problem SB---Heat problem if over bored past 0.030
LT1---Idle all day 100* and a/c on SB---forget this
Just a few things that come to mind but it's your decision.
You pretty much hit the nail on the head. Im more savvy with LS stuff but same rules basically apply.
I just got started with my LS swap. It appears to be pretty complicated since there are about 5 miles of wires laying in a pile on my garage floor.
Another thing to consider the fuel system. The LS requires from 44-58 psi of fuel ( I think the LT's require a bit less, but more than the stock engine). This has led me to consider using the LS long block with a conventional intake manifold and carb to get it into the frame and operational. Then I can upgrade the fuel system after I collect all the expensive bits.
The wiring is actually pretty easy. Once you do one you will laugh on the next one. If you put power to all the pink wires and the orange and red wire on the “C2” connector it will run! To correctly hook everything up with relays and some fuses its a little bit of work but its really not that scary. I tried really hard on my first one.....6 swaps later i did my 49 gmc and i threw that harness together as quickly and “hacky” as possible. Its runs like a dream and I honestly left the whole harness together and just de pinned what i wasnt using and left all the wires in the harness unused. No problems here. As for fuel pressure.... a $100 frame mounted pump is VERY easily plumbed from the stock gravity feed tank. All the stock fuel parts and intake manifold should serve you well and support plenty of power.
Here's my dilemma...I purchased the above to put into my '50 3100. I know the donor cars history. It had 118,000 miles on it and is complete with all accessories including the harness. My issue is I have next to no knowledge on the electronics...not something I can work on. I'm considering selling the unit and then buy a more "user friendly" small block with a 700R4. A conventional aspirated engine I can work on and I think the tranny is more compatible with the original speedometer...I could be wrong with that assumption. I realize that the accessories are worth a lot of $$$$$ and may not come with my preferred option.
I think I have a buyer. I told him I would let him know by the weekend.
Please share your thoughts and opinions SOON.
Once you get it setup correctly you wont have to “work” on a fuel injected setup. As for the speedometer you can get crazy and change parts of the trans to adapt to cable drive or you can use the “cable X driver” and it converts a digital input from trans to a mechanical cable output. Someone just set one up on here with success and i have also in the past. That way you can use your 100% stock speedo and keep the truck looking stock from the driver’s seat. Check out my build and you will see anything’s possible with a little trickery. If any real “AD expert” hopped in my truck they probably wouldn’t even know it was a LS swapped truck. They MIGHT catch the fuel pump whine when keyed on but if they didn’t have great hearing they would miss it and start it from the factory floor switch and pull the factory column shift into gear and drive away with ease like every other stock truck with all working stock gauges and accessories. Only thing not hooked up is the choke/throttle pull knobs. One will be used for a inline heater cut off valve at a later date though.
