Wally/Montana's photo shows why I only did it this way once. Subsequent to this photo, one has to tilt the engine on the hoist assembly back toward level to clear the grill. If something slides of slips or a bolt breaks........

I cut my teeth on old 60s era KW and Pete log trucks. The parts were bigger but the procedure was much the same. The drill went like this:

Pull truck into shop. Close shop door; fill orchard heater with hydraulic oil from yesterday's job; light orchard heater with acetylene torch (hopefully you swept the snow off the truck outside.) Roll toolbox up close to orchard heater (but not so close as to singe the paint) Chock truck wheels; Drain cooling system; Drain oil pan and filters, save oil to mix with gear oil for orchard heater tomorrow (it'll be colder); Put transmission jack under transmission, support lightly and remove mounting bolts; Remove wiring, air lines, clutch linkage, exhaust, hydraulic hoses, radiator and grill (predated one piece fiberglass front ends); Position gantry over engine and attach crane to lifting eyes, support engine slightly; Remove motor mount bolts; double-check that everything is disconnected; Lift engine slightly, lift transmission to match; Check that transmission slides freely away from engine, i.e. doesn't bind on clutch splines. Move gantry toward front of truck, checking for loose things catching along the way. Do not hit PT pump on fender skirt; Remove engine and set on suitable dolly and block engine for safety.

Position replacement engine under gantry. Reverse above procedure. Open shop doors. Test fire engine. Make out tie-in instructions for night shift. Pick up lunch box and clock out.

Sweep snow off pickup. Get in. Pull choke and throttle knobs; turn on key; step on starter; turn off key; return to shop for battery cart; return to pickup; notice that cab marker lights are on; turn markers off; hook up booster batteries; turn on key and step on starter. Test fire engine, warm up engine; turn "Warmer" knob fully clockwise, move heater switch to low only so you don't freeze water in heater; disconnect battery cart and return it to battery room in shop. Return to pickup; replace battery box top and floor mats. Sweep snow off windshield again. Get in cab. Move heater switch to high. Pull out of truck yard and onto highway. Stop at Silver Spoon cafe for Wednesday night meatloaf special.

This is how I remember removing a 335 Cummins from a late 50s KW frame. The parts are big and heavy. An AD Chev is a very similar process. The parts are big and heavy so watch your fingers but not 4,000 lbs. Still pulling the engine and transmission as a unit is a fool's errand. Transmission jacks are your friend. So are smooth level floors. So are meatloaf dinners at the end of a cold winter's day.


1951 3800 1-ton
"Earning its keep from the get-go"
In the DITY Gallery
1962 261 (w/cam, Fenton headers, 2 carbs, MSD ign.), SM420 & Brown-Lipe 6231A 3spd aux. trans, stock axles & brakes. Owned since 1971.