The nickel/chrome (not steel) resistance wire was used between the ignition switch and the coil on early 1960's and later models instead of a ballast resistor to drop the voltage to the coil during normal running. To assist in getting the engine cranked, a bypass wire was run from the starter solenoid or foot switch on 12 volt stovebolt engines. Check the voltage at the (+) terminal of the coil while the engine is cranking- - - -it should be a minimum of 9-10 volts. If not, install a foot switch for a 55-up 235 starter, the one that has a small terminal on the side as well as the big one for the battery cable, and run a wire from that connection to the coil (+) terminal. Rock Auto lists that switch in their online catalog. If the ballast resistor is installed properly between the ignition switch and the coil, you should be getting 9-10 volts to the ignition switch side of the coil (+) during normal running.
Jerry

"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway
Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!