KROIL is a penetrating oil, intended to get between rusty or corroded parts and free them up. Put a couple of ounces into each cylinder, let it sit a few days, then drain it out of the oil pan and pour it back into the cylinders if necessary. (Drain the oil first). I've gotten virtually all of it out of an oil pan after it sits in the cylinders a few days, even on engines with the piston rings rusted tight to the cylinder walls. If the engine isn't stuck that badly, it will usually end up in the oil pan overnight. Apply a liberal squirt to all the valve stems and guides to minimize the chance of sticky valves and bent pushrods. If you're storing an engine for long periods of time, use a thicker coating like 30 weight motor oil in the cylinders as a preservative.
Once the engine is spinning freely and appears to be ready to run, fill the crankcase with fresh motor oil, clean up the spark plugs, set the timing, use fresh gasoline from a clean container like an outboard motor fuel tank (NEVER the vehicle tank unless it's been thoroughly cleaned or replaced) and run the engine until it's warmed up.
If you want to clean sludge and crud from the crankcase and rotating assembly, add 3-4 quarts of Diesel fuel or kerosene to the oil so the crankshaft is running in the lube oil/solvent mix, and run the engine at a moderately fast idle for 20-30 minutes. DO NOT DRIVE THE VEHICLE WITH DILUTED OIL! The spinning crankshaft and connecting rods will splash the thinned-out oil around inside the engine like a washing machine agitator and do a better job of cleaning the lower end than removing the oil pan and using a brush and solvent could ever accomplish. Drain the thinned oil while it's hot, change the oil filter element and add fresh oil. The engine should crank and run normally, with 6 volts. Don't forget to reinstall the 6V coil.
Jerry
