Doug, thank you so much, that would be great! I'll send you a PM so we can work out the details.
Dave, thanks for the info, that's exactly what I was thinking of. My radiator is a little different from yours it looks like, Chevy must've changed the design when they switched from the 235 to the 230. My upper tank is straight across the top, and the connection for the upper radiator hose is off to one side because there's a bracket dead center which holds the top of the radiator in place (unfortunately I don't have a picture). Mine also does not have mounting brackets on the sides, instead it is held in place by three brackets (two on the bottom, one on the top) which support the radiator with rubber pads, so there are no screws or bolts holding the radiator itself to the truck. I looked at KKS's website, and from what I can tell, they don't seem to have one that matches mine exactly. I'm sure I could make the older style one work, though, by dispensing with my mounting brackets and using the brackets on that radiator to bolt it to the core support, assuming the width is the same, or close to it. Unfortunately, I left what remained of my original core support back in Virginia, so I can't pull measurements off of it, but I could probably get somebody back home to do it. If I remember right, there were some shields on mine which helped deflect the air coming through the core support into the radiator, which I think could be easily replaced by the brackets welded on the sides of KKS's radiator. I might even be able to use the same holes. If, for some reason, Hambone's radiator doesn't work out, I 'd say that's definitely my next best option. More affordable than the exact reproductions and looks better than the normal aluminum ones, but I still get the advantages of having a three-row aluminum unit.
I haven't figured out for sure how to make that tach work yet. To be honest, I haven't given it hardly any thought since I got a hold of the cluster. I am pretty sure somebody told me, though, that there was a capacitor, or resistor, or something, that could be removed or replaced so that the tach would register a revolution every 6 impulses instead of every 8, but I just haven't looked into exactly what or where that is yet.
I pulled the governor out of the solvent yesterday, boy did that make a difference! A whole bunch of old, gummy grease came out of it, and now I can make the weights flip out by spinning it with my fingers like a top. Now, I just have to figure out what kind of lubricant to put back in the governor, and track down that darn seal! I took the dimensions of the seal, plus another half-dozen alternate part numbers I was able to track down, in to O'Reilly's, and they still weren't able to find anything on it at all
. I will say it
is a weird seal, as there is an unusually large difference between the inner and outer diameters (0.375"/0.837").
I also finished the little repair on the solenoid case. Could't find any fiber washers at the local ACE hardware with a small enough inner diameter, so I settled for rubber instead. Basically, I made sandwich out of three of them all held together by the upholstery grommet. The center one was trimmed down so that its outer diameter was the same as the diameter of the hole in the case, and all three were lightly belt-sanded before installation to thin them up just enough for the grommet to hold all three. I think it turned out pretty well, and there is no continuity between the case and the grommet, so it seems to be doing its job. If I tried, I could probably push the whole thing out from the inside, but I don't think that'll be a problem once it's installed and has the terminal screw holding it down.
