The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline So, you think you're smarter than GM?

OK, here is my last try. This is NOT aimed at Carl, it is aimed at the misinformation.

1. The castle nut/cotter pin is a locking feature. Period. It is used instead of other types of hardware locking that were available back then. Namely lock washers. Because it is unlikely to loosen (or tighten). In the Aircraft world it can be called "fail safe" if compared to a lock washer, etc. Forget I ever used the word fail safe.

2. If you find a castle nut, on an old truck, that has deformed threads and a cotter pin, it's wrong.

3. If you find a castle nut, on an old truck, and the cotter pin is not down into a slot. It's WAY WRONG. You must use additional washers or a thinker washer or drill a new hole or whatever it takes to achieve a torqued lock with a cotter pin.

4. I already explained how to install the castle/cotter on torqued steering hardware we are discussing. When you torque to min-mid spec and then turn to the hole, you install a cotter pin that just kisses the nut slot. The nut can nether tighten or loosen. This "in the slot" applies to the full torque cotter pin or the backed off preload cotter pin. This is a very common and well known method. What is all the fuss about?

5. I doubt if early engineer ever heard of Gr 8 bolts. I doubt if stretch was known. A grade 5 bolt, of those sizes, is mega strong.

6. You can see for Gr 5 and up you just add 2 to the markings to get the grade. Not sure when grade marking began and you can't trust some off shore markings or PO hardware. Just use a good new Gr 5. Gr 8 is not necessary.