| |
Click on image for the lowdown. 
====
| | | Forums66 Topics128,153 Posts1,056,827 Members48,456 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
| | THANKS!
For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Mar 2014 Posts: 4,504 Moderator, Electrical Bay | | Moderator, Electrical Bay Joined: Mar 2014 Posts: 4,504 | I used a neoprene seal in mine and here is what I did: polish the rear main seal contact surface really well on the crank (this is a must) using a piece of wax paper or dollar bill determine how well the rear seal contacts your crank when it is installed...you want to feel resistance on top and bottom. shim as needed...I had to shim mine about .006 on top and bottom seal...strips cut from high quality foil duct seal tape is very good to use. if you have to shim more than .006 use a Dremel tool to remove some of the metal core (rod) from the two seal pieces lubricate with motor assembly oil
Also...be really careful to check your side cover gasket (push rod cover). These are known for leaking and when they do (anyone can fail to get them sealed correctly), the leak mimics the rear main seal leak almost exactly.
Good luck!
~ Jon 1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end
| | |
| |
| |