You are welcome. Just a general outline. Nothing to be afraid of. Power comes in from battery to a distribution point (ammeter or fuse panel or terminal block). Some power is direct: to ignition switch, alternator and headlight switch. Those should also be "fused" by the use a of a fusible link. From the distribution point they go thru the various switches to the draw. Everything has a switch. The draw is a bulb or a motor or accessory.
If you have a turn signal switch. The turn signal bulbs and stop bulbs (filaments) are controlled by that switch and it's associated flasher. If you need help in that area, let us know.
In a real old, original system there could be almost NO fuses. This MUST be updated. An unfused example is: a direct wire to one ammeter terminal, other ammeter terminal to switches/draws. Normally a non fused shorting/overload event is an insulation melt down. Old cloth insulation does not melt, it may burn. If something sparks near gas fumes, it burns. Seldom happens. If there are no fuses, something else has got to give! Best to be safe than sorry.
