We don't know what you did to the alt. Sounds like you are trying to do a "one wire" install. All you have told us is that you modified a "socket plug" to add a jumper. If you would be more specific and be exact, we could possible tell you if you did it right. That's if we know what you are doing. Does socket plug mean a female connector that you plug into the alternator male blades? If you have a drain, how did you know you had a drain? Does the motor not start after sitting? or did you notice something else. There are many ways to have a drain. A battery drain "after a few days" can be a bad battery or a component that is supposed to be off when ignition is off, but is not. We don't know all you have done with wiring and other component replacement. Was everything OK before new alternator? Why did you buy a new alternator? Lots of info and history left out here. Maybe you have installed a CD, bluetooth or a IPhone charger with a "on" light that is draining. Maybe some other "modern" gadget with a indicator light drain. Maybe you miswired something.
What does volt meter say across battery after sitting over night? What does the volt meter say across battery while motor is running? Take off the trickle charger and leave it off until you figure this out. Why did you choose a Suzuki GM alternator? Why not a normal 10Si from O'Reilly's that you could take back down the street. NEVER order a part like that from RA or any vendor and have it shipped. They are all over the place in every town. If you find out it is faulty and can prove it, then you have to ship it back, wait for approval and may pay a restock charge.
Bottom line is you are off on a electronic trouble shooting mission with no professional equipment. You are talking rectifiers and don't even know if you "modified" it correctly. You are playing with a new part. If RA finds out that you messed with the hookup, you and the alternator are toast.
Just give us the info as to how you hooked it up and what is wrong that causes you to ask about rectifiers(diodes). We have no idea what to say until you do that. Everyone is starting to get sucked into an electronics discussion. If the alt puts out proper voltage/amperage and it keeps the battery up, then it's good.
It's pretty simple to find a drain, if that is what is happening, by isolating various components overnight. One at a time. (Like: disconnect the alternator overnight.) That's if you first prove, and state, that your battering goes down overnight as truck is presently wired.
You can get into a testing marathon about milliamps and etc. if you want. I am trying get you to start by being more basic, go over what you have done, no reason to rush to the alternator that I know of. Others will have great, simple ideas, once they know the symptoms/complaint. Don't influence us with your theories and tests. All you know is the battery goes down in a few days. Take the cables off the battery, charge it to 12.6+ and let it sit a "few days" and recheck.
That is the first step. After that, get battery tested at a FLAPS for a double check. Then no sweat, we will help.
Commentary, not aimed at anyone: Many of us are guilty of these issues.
What really bugs me is people, who are just normal truck owners with some mechanic abilities, want to start digging into the internal electronics of a component like an alternator. They either charge or they don't. If they are correct for the internal or external resisted system emlpoyed. They are throw away/core components. A standard 63A 10si is cheap. AC/Delco reman $35-$50. You don't buy an odd ball application, Suzuki/Mitsubishi high dollar, low amp alternator, online. You don't modify or do a "one wire" unless you know what you are doing. You don't need to know it's inner electronic operation and the theory behind it.. You can't perform a discrete component/integrated circuit/specific component test and failure analysis. If you want to know just because you are curious, read about it later after you fix your problem. But first read on how to properly do a "modification" to "one wire".
