| |
Click on image for the lowdown. 
====
| | |
12 members (1955 1 Series, TUTS 59, wilbur53, 3B, mick53, RdsLessTaken, carbking, DaveV, Gdads51, Joe H, tclederman, KEVINSKI),
141
guests, and
2
robots. | | Key: Admin,
Global Mod,
Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,281 Posts1,058,473 Members48,490 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
| | THANKS!
For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: May 2015 Posts: 11,278 Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums | | Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums Joined: May 2015 Posts: 11,278 | I doubt that 63" is too long for a single shaft. My Ford Supercab Longbed has a 2 piece shaft, but both halves are about 4 ft long. I can understand why they put a 2-piece under that, but 63" isn't that long. You will need a slip joint in the shaft, typically installed at the front. Should be an easy thing for a driveline shop to fab for you, either from scratch or modifying an older one. Just find something that's long enough with the right rear yoke and let them do the rest, installing a slip yoke and spline on the front end.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truckFollow this saga in Project JournalPhotos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together. | | |
| |
| |