Hello Mike,
As far as interference with steering or fender. You need to either drive it or jack up front and check to see that tires roll. Then rotate steering wheel lock to lock and observe clearance while on jack stands. Probably no problem with that wheel and tire. If that tire fits the wheel, the wheel is "normal".
As far as safety, or structural reliability of wheel. If wheel has hub cap clips instead of nubs, it is an older wheel. There are riveted two piece and welded two piece wheels.
You describe some surface rust. That is no problem. If wheel has no bends at lip, that's good. There is no way to find breaks, cracks, separation, etc. without blasting and visual inspection. Normally those wheels do not have any trouble. If they are a "cheaper/newer wheel" way out of a normal wheel, maybe need checked. On the other hand, newer wheels are D.O.T. certified for a specific use and load rating.
A little confusing: You do want to have them blasted and painted only if they are viable, but do not want to dismount tires if they are not viable. So the questions is: What are you going to do if you decide they are not viable before dismount? or are you saying you want to be sure they don't interfere with truck components first? If the rubber is still good and there is no interference, then I guess you will run them as is?
Places like Discount Tire will not get involved in a tire that is old (I think 10 years). They will dismount them but will not mount them. If your tires are old/worn/cracked, you would want to throw away anyway, so why not have them dismounted and have a good place like Discount give there opinion on the rim. As a matter of course, they would not mount a tire on a rim they deemed dangerous or damaged anyway. A roadside tire shop, with a guy with a short cigar, would not care.
I was typing when Joe posted. I do not know if I conflict with his comments. My post is not a response to his great post.
If you have a more era correct looking tire in mind, check Coker Tire.
