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Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks  Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
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For helping keep this great
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| | | | Joined: May 2015 Posts: 11,084 Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums | | Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums Joined: May 2015 Posts: 11,084 | Here's a thought. Maybe you could clean off that 1" of the old lower rear panel you left below the beltline, then install the flange on the new panel BELOW the joint instead of trying to sandwich it between the belt reinforcement rail and upper outer panel. You'd also need to remove the vertical flange from the top of the new lower panel That would put the new panel about 1/16 inch lower than the original. You could temporarily fasten it with sheet metal screws then go back and plug weld it to the bottom of the belt reinforcement rail. The lower position wouldn't make much difference on the lower panel. You'd need to dress up the joint on the outside with some filler, but I think it would be much easier than trying to basically disassemble the rear of the cab to weld that panel in place.
I'd recommend you get a copy of the FAM and study the related pages.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truckFollow this saga in Project JournalPhotos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together. | | |
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