Took some pics of a small filler job I did, hopefully someone will find it of some use...Eric

Picture of the 1st coat of filler applied. I will rough out or knock down the extra filler with a da sander with 80 grit. Should also note when doing filler work on a car that has paint on it you should feather edge paint with something like 80 grit. That way you dont have that edge or grinder marks in the paint.
http://www.imagestation.com/4325757/3948466046
http://www.imagestation.com/4325757/3948466048

After roughing out the filler with the da. Nothing major done just get rid of the extra material.
http://www.imagestation.com/4325757/3948465914

Picture of the block sander that will be used and the dry powder guide coat. I will block this out with 80grit. The 80 grit will cut the filler straight and level. Using 40 grit and or a cheese grater is hack work IMO
http://www.imagestation.com/4325757/3948465884

Filler after its been blocked with 80 grit on the board sander. The filler is straight enough for primer, but sanded with 80 grit. You need atleast 180 grit before primer so I will apply a light skim coat of metal glaze to fill the 80 grit. So the metal glaze will be feather edged into the paint, making less work for the primer to fill that surface difference.
http://www.imagestation.com/4325757/3948465907


Closer view of the 80 grit.
http://www.imagestation.com/4325757/3948465697

Before I apply the metal glaze I want all those 80 grit scratches in the paint gone. To do so I da sand with 180 grit, which also allows for a good grit for the metal glaze to be feathered into the paint.
http://www.imagestation.com/4325757/3948465752

Metal glaze applied. Its just a skim coat of very fine filler. All you are doing in this round is filling the 80 grit scratches left in the filler
http://www.imagestation.com/4325757/3948465540

Da sanded with 180 to knock it down then the guide coat applied. Notice that the entire filler area is coated. Any type of imperfection will be highlighted. You can NOT get this level of perfection with spray bomb guidecoat.
http://www.imagestation.com/4325757/3948465562

Block sanded with 180. Since there is a body line running down the fender throu the filler, I needed to replace that line. To get a perfect staright line use a piece of tape to mark your line. Make sure you use reference points to get the line in the right spot.
I will sand on the bottom side of the tape first, this will cut the filler down.
http://www.imagestation.com/4325757/3948465648
http://www.imagestation.com/4325757/3948465876

Once the bottom side is sanded perfect the top portion will be done.
This picture shows a piece of tape run flush to the existing piece of tape but on the bottom side. Now remove the first piece of tape and you have your guide line for the top portion of the body line.
http://www.imagestation.com/4325757/3948465650

Body line sanded back in place, all it needs now is a gentle rolling or smoothing.
http://www.imagestation.com/4325757/3948465835

Filler is done. It is final sanded with 180 on a board sander and feather edged with a da sander with 220. You will notice that the filler is feather edged into the paint. Also notice that you can see right throu that feather edged filler. Feather edging the filler into the paint will require less primer to fill those diffferent surface levels.
Measured filler thickness with mil gauge. Its right at/below 1/16 at its thickest point
http://www.imagestation.com/4325757/3948465656
http://www.imagestation.com/4325757/3948465734

First coat of primer. No waves no imperfections. You can block sand with 400 grit and paint, no need for a block and reprime.
http://www.imagestation.com/4325757/3948466045
http://www.imagestation.com/4325757/3948466049


Currently working on custom metal and How to videos.

1949 and 1972 chevy trucks
70 chevelle SS455
Pictures of my work and projects
http://community.webshots.com/user/sevt_chevelle