Originally Posted by Jim Sears
I correct my statement that the retainer can't be screwed down flush with the bucket.
In the picture on the first post, you can see the 3 channels radiating out from the center, that are pressed into the retainer.
These create ridges on the back that ride on the center edge of the bucket, allowing the retainer to rotate when the retaining screws are adjusted.
If you look at the one that runs down from about 1 O'clock, you will see a crease pressed into it from the back when the retainer was screwed down to the bucket.
These (on the others too) will cause problems with adjusting when the assembly is put together correctly unless they are hammered out.

I agree completely with Jim's statement. The can needs to move freely within the bucket, and those dents in the radial channels would prevent that.

The way the adjusting screws work is when tightened, the spring lengthens and vice-versa, while the can rotates within the bucket, changing the point of aim of the headlight. As you can see on the photo I posted, there are two holes near the spring. The one on the right allows the adjusting screws to line up with the notches on the can. If the spring is hooked in the left hole, the adjusters won't line up.

I seem to recall that the adjusters were a bit of a task to get out. I think they insert from the outside of the bracket toward the center. Is it possible you have them inserted in the brackets in the bucket backward? That might put them too close to the center of the assembly.

Last edited by klhansen; 06/12/2017 5:34 PM.

Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
Photos
1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.