Just got the 11/03 streetrodder magazine article about how to do the patina finish. Here's a summary:

They started with red primer in the spots where the paint usually wears through (or do the whole thing if you have time), then painted the whole truck with flat black paint, to seal it against the elements(they used John Deere Blitz Black).

Next they scuff the black through to red in the normal rust/wear spots using a maroon 3-M pad, then topcoat with BRUSHES using paint and flattening agent.

Next scuff through the top coat in places the paint usually wears down to red in the middle, down to black around the edges(ie where your arm would wear outside the window). Put some polish on the red to stop water from getting through.

Next airbrush some oxidation stains and rust stains around the doorhandles, hinges, louvers, bolts, and other common spots for water normally runs off the body with thinned 1-shot white or medium brown paint, each mixed at about 1:10 paint to thinner. I'll use this treatment around the dents I don't fix just right...

The guys who the article is about will do a professional 'fauxtina' finish at their shop if you want- Dan or Joshua Shaw 513-575-3535


'51 Chevy 1/2 ton w/'62 261, HEI, offy, fentons, dual carter/webbers, t-5 & 12 bolt posi