Disclaimer: I do not know the exact design of this differential. If the studs were used so that the install weight was held until nut were tightened, that's OK. and if they also align the 3rd member (drop out) that's OK. However, when a person has a leaky stud, if that's what is really leaking, I don't know what that means. Is it leaking around the threads that hold the stud to the housing (banjo)? Are they leaking thru the 3rd member clearance hole at nut? Is the leak at the crack/gasket? You gotta be REAL sure of what is leaking.
Normally when you have a stud that receives a nut, the stud should have interference threads (NC-5 CSF) into the part. So that they don't turn during nut torque off. Whatever the case, would it not be easier to take out the few leaky studs, fix/chase/rethread (to any thread) the threaded holes, open up the few 3rd member flange clearance holes involved and use bolts there?
Also, since you are not messing with the gear setup Mr. Yay-hoo did, taking the 3rd member out does not seem to difficult after reading Sweets tip. But after you are sure there is no noise or other problem. Otherwise Mr. Yay-hoo will say "you took it apart, I won't be responsible".
Anyway, this would allow for repair of threads, etc. if you are so inclined as others have said. I have now said don't mess with it and mess with it. Schizo. (Which also can be called deep concentration, research and reflection regarding all options.)
