Here are pictures. I took them from different angles. The first ones don't have labels, the second ones do. I thought it might be easier to be able to match the labeled pictures to the unlabeled ones.
http://s844.photobucket.com/user/ma...2106_zpsvxikh3hh.jpg.html?sort=2&o=0I used brass NPT fittings and copper tubing. I used hard lines because everything is attached to the block. 1/2" tubing is used for full flow and 1/4" tubing is used for bypass.
One thing might confuse folks. The feed line (the one for the oil pressure gauge tee) for a bypass engine become the return for a full flow. Pushing in the dowel changes the oil route. The feed line for the full flow is the 1/2" NPT fitting under the dowel.
The 1/8" NPT bung just to the left of the full flow feed (normally plugged for full flow) is the return for the bypass when using dual filters. It dumps directly into the crankcase.
The full flow return line has a tee that feeds the bypass filter. The bypass filter MUST have a 1/16" reducer orifice.
My bypass filter will be mounted on the manifold with one of the brackets that was available for the AD trucks that centers the canister on the manifolds instead of having it front or back.
Why did I use Fram decals on an AC canister? Because I had the decals. Why is the engine yellow? 261's were painted yellow (one year only) in 1957. The 261 came from a 1957 cement truck and will go into my 1957 3600. How can a '57 261 have a full flow dowel? The 261 had a 1964 replacement block. How can it be a 1964 block if production for 261's ended in 1962? GM made replacement blocks until 1964.
Matt
