Bleeding brakes to remove air. Simple right? Not so fast every one. Start at the beginning. Yep the MC. Any pits? Dirt? or check valves? There are more to these critters than you think. next and even less obvious: Is there a "high" point in the system? Any place vertically above the MC? The obvious answer is yes! our beloved trucks have the MC down under the floor..that means the flex hoses are above the MC. Several other locations are up as well. So you must push fluid over and past these areas. That brings back the MC and volume. So to be helpful..maybe, Bleed the MC first(messy and unpleasant). All flex(rubber hose) must be in good shape. Then start at the longest line run..often the rear on the side away from the MC. But..sometimes the line runs over the cross member down the far side and..the driver side rear is in fact the longest run(gotta love that). Old school method involves a helper. Pump until some pressure is felt at the pedal. Hold and bleed. Repeat until the fluid that comes out is a "solid" stream(irony in language). Move to the other rear and do again. Move to the front(farthest) and do again. Finish at the last wheel.. Now, wait. Grab a drink..any one you like. Hit the pedal 1 time. To the floor? Adjust shoes(as a beginning gambit). Check the pedal travel at the MC. Does it move for the proper range? Does the fluid in the MC recover? The position of the piston and the holes in the MC must work together to move the fluid in the system. You should get a good solid stream from the last wheel as you bleed the system. Then the system should be at least air tight. Dual chambered MC? Front is separate from the rear, and the bigger reservoir is the front. Proper travel on the MC has cured many mystery brake issues. Enjoy!
