No seal on the hold down bolt. If you want to run solid lines to the filter, I would run something less prone to cracking than copper. I would also use a "Lockheed" loop to absorb vibration issues. The flexible lines are not expensive or hard to find or even have made. You need 2, this is one: http://www.oldchevytrucks.com/cart/product.asp?prodid=ME295&i=9979|||||
And this is the other: http://www.oldchevytrucks.com/cart/product.asp?prodid=ME296&i=9979|||||
They can also be made at a good hose shop. for the question about oil level, if I get you right, the engine holds 5 quarts, and the filter holds about 1 so I usually fill the motor with 5 quarts. Run it for a few minutes, then add the last quart. The canister will hold about 1 quart after it fills. The gasket for the top to the canister is different for some canisters. Measure the diameter inside the top. That will help you get the right filter along with the height of the filter. Those 2 measurements are what you need to get the correct filter and gasket. There can be differences from canister to canister. Here is 1: http://www.oldchevytrucks.com/cart/product.asp?prodid=ME373&i=9979|||||
And here is another: http://www.oldchevytrucks.com/cart/product.asp?prodid=ME289&i=9979|||||
It can be confusing I know. The is a very good "Tech Tip on the site. It has a lot of information:
http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/engines/oil%20filters/index.html Don't get too confused, the "oil filter" was an option installed at the dealer for many years. You could have an early filter on a newer motor or a newer one on an older motor. Some are tall, some are short. Just match the best you can. The gasket in the top should fit nice and snug. That way it won't move when the top is tightened down.
