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Click on image for the lowdown. 
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| | | Forums66 Topics128,089 Posts1,056,353 Members48,442 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
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For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Mar 2014 Posts: 4,504 Moderator, Electrical Bay | | Moderator, Electrical Bay Joined: Mar 2014 Posts: 4,504 | Before you install the oil pan, take your time to check and be sure the seal is making contact with your crankshaft--all the way around. I mention this because my 1959 235 wasn't and I had to shim the seal on the rear side by about .003. Also make certain the portion of your crankshaft which will contact that seal is smooth. If it is pitted and rough, you won't get a good seal with the rubber seal and it will wear out more quickly. That BEST seal is pretty costly. If you want to buy one of the Fel-Pro rubber seals, please contact me. I bought some when they were still available. At the end they weren't cheap, but less expensive than the BEST seal and do the same job. Also check the clearance between your rear main bearing and your crank. Regardless of which seal type you use, you don't want your crank moving around any more than it has to. Jon
~ Jon 1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end
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