The threaded bars are free and float just fine. The countersunk design of the striker plate holes will only allow very minimul adjustment in/out as they pull themselves back to a centered position in the door jam hole when tightened. Once you start to tighten the screws and the countersunk hole edge of the striker plate hits the edge of the door jam hole she pulls it back centered as far as in and out adjustment. The door jam hole is only elongated for up and down movement, not in and out. I only need a smidgen more adjustment to get the door latch cam to finish rotating into the latched position without haveing to slam the door to make it happen. I'm out of any more in/out adjustment left in the striker plate. Just wondered what other guys might have tried. I have a few ideas to try yet, just bouncing it out there to see if someone has a "duh why didn't I think of that" simple solution that I'm being blind to.


1949 Chevy 3600
1975 W-25 Hurst Olds
1970 GMC 1/2 ton Fleetside
2010 Chevy Silverado