Great post Ken. Another great post completely missing the mark. Let me try to get through the cloud cover here...

When you do a stock 6 volt conversion to 12 volts, you follow how-to articles like the one found here in the Tech Tips section. You remove the 6 volt battery, put a 1 wire alternator and a few resistors in line with a few gauges and a ballast resistor (or resistor coil) and thats about it. These articles always say to use the 6 volt starter because that has proven to work. NOWHERE, I MEAN NOWHERE does it say to get a 12v solenoid switch and run a wire to your ignition switch.

If they DO say that, my problem is, why? The 6 volt starter and a properly tuned engine will start in less than one revolution, WITHOUT a bypass wire. WHY? Is it possible that because you are using a 6 volt starter, you are essentially doing the same thing as if you added a bypass wire? Anyone with much understanding of ignition systems should be able to answer this, although to be honest, not sure why many people would know unless they are running this kind of system.

This is why its dead true, Mr Lincoln gets all pissy when he doesn't know. I do not know why. I would hope this is a relatively new thing since he was a TEACHER!!

This is no small thing. When writing about ignition conversions for AD era trucks, this is a very important issue so we can all be on the same page when it comes to PROPER conversions.

For my frame up resto, there will be no conversion, everything is native 12 volts. EXCEPT, how cool would it be to not have a second bypass wire in the system because the starter is a 6 volt. (A positive thing)

I know you like to suck up to the winning team and all Ken... see it all the time, but in this case, how about we just drop the issue, since nobody knows and I will find out another way.


Deve

1950 Chevy 3100 Deluxe Cab
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