Update #4
Thanks for all the ideas and advice.
here is what I have found and done since update #3.
it is FIXED! at least for now
(1)
I ordered a carb rebuild kit - figuring one way or another I would wind up using it now or in the future, so why not. but, it will likely not come for days, and I wanted to get the truck running now....
(2)
I searched the net for rebuild vids (to be ready when the kit came) and found a youtube vid by mike's carb about Rochester 1 bls flooding. how timely!
so, after watching the vid several times I took the top of the carb off (air horn?) leaving the bottom of the carb connected to the engine. it was 4 main screws, and a 5th screw that held the choke cable end, and I was able to take the top completely off. the 'bowl' had some gas in it (guess that is normal?).
(3)
I checked the floats and they were empty and looked good. when I set the air horn back in I could see the floats rise once the floats met the gas.
I checked the float 'measurements' using the 'guide/ruler' and instructions that came with the old used rebuild kit that I had found in the glove box. the settings were way off, so I adjusted them - but the way they were set I would think that they would stop the gas flow 'earlier' than 'later'. I wonder if someone did that to try and circumvent the 'real' issue... hmmmm
(4)
I checked the needle and seat and they looked good. but, after playing with the needle several times I found a tiny bit of friction that would cause the needle to ever so lightly stay/stick 'closed' (stopping gas flow). but, no matter what I tried I could not get it to stay/stick 'open' (which might cause an overflow of gas). hmmmm
(5)
well, I figured that since I had the carb open, and there was a little bit of friction, i might as well clean the needle and seat. so I polished the needle and seat using 'flitz' (great stuff) and a microfiber towel. I put the needle and seat back in, and the float, and I found that the friction was gone. the needle moved freely up and down when I turned the air horn upside down and right side up. so that was good.
(6)
put the carb back together, started the engine, AND NO MORE LEAKING! hooray!
ran it for 30 minutes off and on - no stall and no leak. started it; stopped it - no leak. drove it around my property (not registered yet) and no leak. previously, if I did any of that it would leak.
in summary: (a)
originally I had multiple issues with the engine running rough and stalling.
so, a tune up helped the engine run better and prevent any stalling. looked like it had not been tuned up in years.
and, I changed out the 2 in line gas filters (one of them was hiding....).
(b)
originally I had some issue(s) with the carb flooding/overflowing. I adjusted the floats to spec and polished the needle and seat - I did not find any blockage or dirt or buildup of any kind.
so, if I had to guess, it was the float adjustment and/or the needle and seat polishing that fixed the carb issue since that is all I worked on.
thanks to all for the advice! all of your comments got me going in the right direction.
