no other adjustments, just learning the feel when you're shifting, you can't take a 'straight shot' from 1st to 2nd, and can't make a "U" from 3rd to 1st, you need to keep to the squared "H" all the time - visualize that box and how things move,
here you're in neutral, but the pawl is in the 2nd/3rd fork, held down by the spring - to get to 1st or reverse it needs to move straight up [against spring pressure] before anything,
then it can move the pawl, and once it does, it can't drop back into the other fork, especially if you're holding the pressure against the spring .... but, in your pic it does look like the inside corners of the 2/3 fork are rounded a bit, indicating long term sloppy shifting, it may be that you need to get a spot of weld on those ends and file them back square .... also if the trans arms holes aren't quite big enough to take the bronze bushings you can always ream them out enough to make the fit - also make sure the cotter pin cinches the rod in tight, usually you'll need a washer, the more slack at either end of the rods, the more likely the box will jam
Bill
