Make a check list and start with one thing at a time.
1, Timing, use the "BB" on the flywheel to set initial timing.
2, Use the vacuum gauge to set timing at idle to max vacuum, then back it off for a little drop on the vacuum guage.
3, Set idle speed to 450-500 RPM.
4, Adjust idle mixture screw for max vacuum. The choke should be completly open by now and the engine fully warm. If the engine won't idle with the choke off, adjust the idle speed up and readjust the mixture screw for max vacuum.
5, Check for vacuum leaks, check again, fix vacuum leaks. If need be, disconnect line to wiper, hydrovac and any thing else. It will idle with the vacuum advance disconnected.
6, Use a Dwell meter, to be certain the HEI is working the coil properly. For an inline 6 you should have close to 30 degrees of dwell. Tells you if the points are gapped correctly if you have points and if you have an HEI it should tell you if the HEI is getting a clean signal to the coil.
7, Verify the firing order is correct. If you have a "short" dizzy cap you need a "short" rotor. If you have a "tall" cap you need a "tall" rotor.
8, Do you have the correct base gasket under the Carb? Is there a leak at the base of the "insulator" and the manifold?
One step at a time. Fix and test one step at a time. If need be remove the HEI and go with points. You can put the Hei back if you want. Vacuum advance can leak, wiper motor can leak, Flat level can be wrong. Timing can be off. I don't have any experiance with Hydro Vac...but I would bet it can leak as well. Others will have suggestions as well. Use them and remember to do ONE thing at a time. It will get better. You might have a leak at the manifold to head, it can be tested with propane, unlight of course. These engins will run, with the timing off, plug wires in the wrong places, and with lots of things not right. They will not run real well but they will run. That is the beauty of these old critters. They actualy want to work.
