Could you give a definitive step-by- step "how to" for a novice to follow to determine if their motor indeed has a "high lift aggressive profile camshaft and high pressure springs" so they don't use the wrong oil and wipe a camshaft lobe?
That would be most helpful.
If your motor goes 'whumpa-whumpa' at idle... that's what the mechanic who restores old engines told me.
As much as I would like to discuss ZDDP and the reasons why you DO NOT NEED to be adding it.. for some reason 'feelings' always degenerate the discussion into third hand rumors from mysterious 'old mechanics' that know more than actual engineers.
Its not a black and white 'you DON'T NEED TO add it' answer, but the short version of a very long story is no, unless you have things like double valve springs and cam lobes that look like squares and not eggs you don't need it to add anything to the oil.
What I would like to compile is a list of all the 'feelings' why people add it... and then destroy each one with quantitative scientific research that disproves it.
Short story: I was in a 'discussion' that GL-5 gear oil should not be used in M35A2 drive lines.. I said it most certainly SHOULD (the popular 'opinion' was that GL-1 aka mineral oil! was the right lube). It was a blood bath... till I was able to prove that the MILSPEC oil in the driveline since the mid-1980's was in fact, GL-5 gear oil and none of the horrors like 'yellow metal getting eaten' or 'incompatible seals' and every horror story of 'I knew a guy' COULD NOT HAVE POSSIBLY BEEN TRUE. The trucks had GL-5 gear oil in them for 20+ years and none of the stories could ever had been true... yet everyone with an account was posting that GL-5 would 'rot the yellow metal'. 20+_ years later still waiting for that rot to happen
