From what I've read here it sounds like your jumping all over
the place randomly looking for a reason the engine won't start.
Setting up an engine is like building a house. You start at the
foundation and build from there.
First thing you need is to bring the engine up to top dead
center on the compression stroke. From there line up the timing
pointer with the ball on the flywheel. Drop your distributor
in, lining up the oil pump with the tang on the distributor may
take a couple of tries. You can start the rotation from any
where you like but the standard position for #1 is the lower
left quadrant, anywhere from 6-8 o'clock will work just fine.
Once the distributor is seated and the rotor is pointing to
6-8 o'clock, turn the distributor in a counter clock wise
position till the points are just beginning to break. You can
do that visually or if you eyes are bad and you prefer, you can
use a cheap multimeter to tell when they break. Seat the tang
in the cap in the notch in the housing and fasten it with the
clips. Run #1 wire, which the rotor will be pointing
at, to it's plug, then in a clock wise rotation run
#'s 5,3,6,2, ending with #4. If you have over heated
the coil you may have opened or shorted the coil, I
would use a known good 6v coil.
There is no need to use a 12v battery to start your engine.
Timed properly it should start right up on 6v. Once it's running
you can zero in on the timing with a timing light and set it on
the ball.
The carburetor should start the engine with the idle mixture
out approximately 1 1/4 turn, then adjust it from there once
the engine is up to operating temperature by turning it in till
it begins to stumble then backing it off an eighth to a quarter
of a turn.
With clean tight electrical connections, a good battery, fresh
ignition parts and a newly rebuilt carburetor that engine
should start first turn over. Unless of course your foundation
is shaky, meaning the compression is non-existent and or the
valves aren't adjusted some where in the ball park.
The leak from your newly rebuilt carburetor, if it's a
Rochester 'B' is most likely coming from the all to common
warped air horn if the float is set properly.
It's no more complicated than that.
Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL
Last edited by Denny Graham; 06/04/2014 8:32 PM.
