Tom Samson, " I replaced the camshaft with a new one from Chevys of the forties " .

DennisM, " Did you use new lifters too Tom " ?

Tom Samson, " no I didn't. I didn't think they looked bad "


Initial startup must be done exactly as Hot Rod Lincoln states
with zddp in the oil & high rev's for 20 - 30 minutes.

Your original (1946 216 6 cyl) camshaft was
a FORGED STEEL camshaft and used
CHILLED IRON BASE tappets / lifters.

There is NOT a forged steel camshaft being made
in the USA today.

So, the cam you bought from Chev of the 40's had
to be a CAST CAMSHAFT.

CAST camshafts USE HARDENABLE iron tappets / lifters.

So, what tappets / lifters did you use with the NEW CAST CAM ?

PIC@photobucket

Read the sides of the OLD ISKY LIFTER BOXES.

http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv57/glp0329/ISKY/OldCamCompanyLifterboxes_zps6fc62dc4.jpg

Use the wrong type of tappet/lifter = cam lobe wipeout & or lifter wipeout.
The cast cam being softer usually goes first.

It's known as: Metalurgical Incompatibility.

I advise using NEW LIFTERS with a NEW CAM
or
at least have the matching old lifters re-faced by a company
that knows how to do them properly.

I'd never use used tappets on a new cam.
It's just not good engine building.

The old time Chevy solid lifters were NOT
flat on the lifter face.
They have approx. a ( 0.002" ) hemispherical crown
designed onto the lifter face.
That crown radius helps make the lifter spin & slide across the cam lobe.

Most of the lifter re-finishing companies don't
have the brains or equipment to duplicate
the spherical radius.
They just re-grind them flat.

Flat re-faced lifters that are supposed to
have a crown will not spin the lifter.
You can expect a future problem
in this area.

They all say, they know about the radius
but
This is a discussion for another day.

Delta Cams in Tacoma, WA.
are the people, I would
use for cam regrinding
and proper lifter re-facing.

link to Delta Cams
short videos you can watch
shows cam regrinding process & more
http://deltacam.com/camshaftgrinding.php?p=2

If you still have your original forged steel camshaft.
It can be reground to stock specs ( check the casting # ) to be sure of what you have.

Cam Work:on your original forged cam
Polished Journal Bearing Surfaces - Re-Ground Lobes - Cleaned & Straightened.
You could even have it parkerized.
That can help in break - in .

Then you could look for some GM NOS tappets
like these that sold on ebay yesterday.

http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv57/glp0329/ISKY/GM839263ChilledIronTappets_zps9bed3034.jpg

You need to MATCH the cam to the lifters.

This is an absolute MUST.
There is NO debate.

CHILLED IRON BASE lifters with a forged cam.
or
HARDENABLE IRON lifters with a cast cam.

You need to be sure the distributor drive

GEAR matches the camshaft.



The chilled iron tappets are hard to find.

But they are out there.

I'd be willing to help you hunt down some new nos
lifters .

Just PM me.

George






Last edited by '54 3600; 05/05/2014 5:27 AM. Reason: addition

1954 3600
A big help to many on the Bolt
Now cruising in
The Passing Lane