Quote
Originally posted by atomarc:
IBenDcars,

Technically speaking, your alternator should not work if it is a true three wire unit and the DA plug isn't connected. By changing the internal regulator, this unit can be morphed into a single wire unit but the two tabs in the DA hole disappear.

Doesn't your ignition coil wiring include a ballast resistor somewhere....on the firewall. The coil should see 12 volts during START, and around 9 volts on RUN. This is usually accomplished with the ballast resistor, but sometimes with a resistance key wire in the loom.

The starter solenoid is a common place for a bypass contact...it's usually a small terminal marked 'R' (I think). This would go to the coil side of the ballast resistor or to the coil + itself. You should have either two wires on the coil +, one full voltage START and one reduced voltage RUN. If you have only one wire on the coil +, then those two wires described above would be attached to the ballast resistor (on the coil side).

You won't burn up your coil, but your points will fail prematurely. Hope this mini-novel helps some.

Stuart
Thanks for the quick reply.

Alternator What is the DA

I did not see a ballast resitor but that would explain the wires to the starter, I may have to pull the starter to figure this one out. I don't want to burn up the points so no more driving till till i get this one figured out.


My new 1949 Chevy One Ton Dump Truck. Still have it but parked, needs a new motor.
1953 2 ton parts truck Long Gone
1957 GMC LCF On 75 Cadillac Eldorado Frame
Updated Feb 2021