revted47,
The fact that a new coil made no difference takes that off the list of probable causes. There is nothing in the distributor that would change with a hot engine/cold engine problem. If this is truly a condition brought on by heat, any electrical component would be the first suspect as the resistance goes up as the component warms. The condenser can react to heat, but you have replaced that too.
Obviously, the most common items that would react adversely to heat would be a percolating carburetor or valves that were too tight, but this has nothing to do with a no spark situation.
I don't know what kind of volt tester you have, but I think I would measure the voltage at the + and - side of the coil WHILE someone cranked the engine. The - side should alternate between a positive reading and zero as the points open and close. Do this when the problem would be present.
I know you have checked the point gap using a dwell meter...have you actually set them or checked them with a gap gauge.
If the starter is worn out and marginal, it might be pulling excessive power when you are in a hot start condition. This could mean a weak spark. I know I have stated this a bazillion times before, but I still wonder if you are really getting no ZAP at any plug wire when the engine is hot. This arc probably won't be huge and might be difficult to see...you could find a volunteer to hold the wire while you tried to start it.
Stuart
