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Click on image for the lowdown. 
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8 members (Hotrod Lincoln, carbking, tclederman, Bill Hanlon, 49choptop, Guitplayer, John L., Otto Skorzeny),
125
guests, and
4
robots. | | Key: Admin,
Global Mod,
Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,042 Posts1,055,501 Members48,424 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
| | THANKS!
For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Jun 2011 Posts: 1,901 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jun 2011 Posts: 1,901 | I pull the thermostat and run a shop vac hose (or whatever I have that fits) from the Water pump outlet to the garbage can. So that's the 'Return' line. Pull one of the heater hose lines and hook the other up in it's place to bypass the heater (and it's small passageways)
Then I pull the block petcock/drain and thread a fitting in to hook up the 'supply' hose from the sump pump. Your local hardware usually has the brass fittings needed to adapt from one size hose ID to another.
In at the block drain Out at the water pump outlet.
If you have a way to block off the rad hose lines you could use the heater hose 'ports' I suppose. I just went with what was easiest on the rig I was working on...
I usually start with hot water from my H2O heater to help with any grease or oil. In the end I just wanted a way to circulate the water for hours without having to run the engine.
Give me ambiguity or give me something else
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